Thursday 6 December 2012

The Lottery of Life

If I was born a cow instead of a human I think my choice of residence would have to be Kathmandu.
By far I have seen more cows in Kathmandu than I did on all my field visits of dairy cooperatives in Makawanpur and Lalitpur.
Consider this; as a cow in Kathmandu I am free and I am sacred. I have seen cows travel in packs, and on their own. I have seen them happily stealing from market stalls and restaurants. On one memorable occasion I saw two of them racing through an alley way, the lead cow with some sort of packaged box hanging by a string from its mouth, and behind  them the rightful owner chasing them with a stick; a lost cause for him once they entered the crowded thoroughfare. They seem to own the place.
As a cow I am not chained or fenced in here. So far as I can tell I am free to roam the entire Kathmandu valley, an area that is almost precisely the same geographic foot print of a standard sized Ontario township.
Being a ruminant my preference would be grains, hay, silage I suppose. But in Kathmandu I have seen cows feasting on a variety of food sources. In fact as a cow, I think Kathmandu would be the pinnacle of food diversity and sophistication. They are most often seen rummaging through heaps of garbage that is piled everywhere (and anywhere). From a cow's perspective this is a magnificent 'city-wide buffet' of sorts really.

And there is every variety of cow in Kathmandu (although the predominant breed appears to be a hybrid jersey of some sort). I don’t know their age expectancy or if they reach their maximum weight potential. But to me they appear healthy – far more so than the rib, bone and skin version you see in central America. Whether a result of pedigree or not, it is true they are not nearly the size of prize cattle you would see at any typical  fall fair. They kind of look and act like large pets.
I swear they are smiling.

Above all as a cow I am safe. Although there are more than 100 reported vehicular collisions a day in Kathmandu, very rarely is a cow involved. Motorists are keen to dodge them. Its not the physical damage (every vehicle here has dents and scratches). Rather, there is a reverse onus of liability owed to the owner of the cow if its damaged or destroyed. And this is something that could cost a relatively large sum to the average Nepalese.
Where the per-capita income annual income is less than $500 per year; in a country ranked 145th out of 153 countries on the UN’s 2008 Human Development Index; where a quarter of the population lives on less than a dollar a day and more than one in twenty children die before they reach their fifth birthday…, In a strange paradoxical way it makes you think about who won the lottery of life.
  

Tuesday 4 December 2012

Flying High


After returning to Kathmandu, my next set of meetings are not for a couple of days in nearby Lalitpur. I have been working non-stop (weekends included) so I have taken a couple of days to fly over to Pokhora - 200 ks on YetiAir.
Pokhora is a city of 300,000 very close to the base of the Himilayan Mountains and world renowned for its trekking opportunities (it is the picture on my blog in fact.)

A colleague told me if I got the opportunity I should definitely powerglide Pokhora. I am not a paraglider but I took up his advice. Wow.
After a treacherous jeep ride up to a 3000 ft peak, the take off area is a downward slope of about 15 degrees, then a drop of 500 ft to the tree canopy.
“Jeff, the most dangerous part is the take off, just keep running and don’t sit down or jump, just keep running.” Over a cliff. The pilot speaks very little English but it is clearly obvious he has rehearsed this part many many times.
Waiting for a favourable headwind, waiting, waiting, waiting. Ok Go Go Go!!!! I ran and ran. (Eyes closed).
The MOST HAIR RAISING AND SCARY EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE.
My son insisted I take his Go Pro camera and glad I did. I have a movie that I will cherish forever. In the meantime here are some pic’s I took preparing and aloft.  




At this point I am petrified



Aloft!
 

Annapurna Range, with Fishtail Mountain in center view (Max the HD footage I have is AWESOME!!!) 


Sunday 2 December 2012

Workshop

  
It’s embarrassing to recall that I once jockingly mocked my mother in law who knit countless mittens for children in developing countries; ‘Mavis, even if you knit until the cows come home you can’t possibly hope to make a dent’. My wife told me that she felt her mother made mittens because every time she saw an impoverished child in a picture or on TV her fingers got cold. I think what she did was simply driven out of something in her heart; if you could make one child somewhere happy by providing them with a pair of mittens, you had changed that single person’s life in a positive way. And there has to be something good about that.
Most experts on world poverty believe that the social and economic inclusion of women and disadvantaged groups is a key enabler to improving local communities and ending the cycle of poverty.  Although descrimination against certain castes and women has been legislated against in Nepal, in much of the nation outside Kathmandu a rigid and ancient social order retains its stubborn grip*.   Working in rural Nepal I think I have been on the very frontier of this issue. And sometimes I wonder if I have really been successful at making a meaningful impact.
Yesterday I hosted a workshop for 25 local cooperative representatives which focused on how to bring access to insurance programs to small farmers. Following a report by the World Bank in 2009, there is a pressing need to bring technical skills and knowledge to "scale up" mutual insurance schemes in the agricultural sector of Nepal. Even without many of the things we take for granted in Canada, like a stable political and legal environment, Nepalese have a burning desire to build their own capacity and find ways to collectively protect themselves against loss. 
It is a monumental and daunting task, but I guess the workshop for members of the local cooperatives in the Hetauda region is a start.  


DCMPU Workshop- winners of a Canadian Toque in the Nepal/Canada Dairy Knowledge Quiz


* More about what is the Caste system at; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caste_system_in_Nepal