Money Matters (?)

This morning I am woken with an urgent text from the bank. There is a possibility that my financial accounts have been compromised. Oh no! The thought of trying to manage a financial issue half a world away.., concerning and stressful for sure. I phone the number that they have given me and begin what I am sure will be a long drawn out process. Good news, between my wife and I in a matter of minutes the problem is solved. Phew.

Today we work on policy documents and Napelese contract law for several hours, then we decide to travel to Chitwan National Park this evening to stay in the Terai* for Saturday.

Praveen, a 25 year old CECI Intern and a graduate of Tribhuvan University with a Masters Degree has been asssigned to work with me on my mandate and is living with me in Hetaudu. He has been my translater, interpreter, guide, secretary, writer. He has taught me about Nepalese norms, etiquette and negotiated finding everything from the right restaurant, to where is the nearest western style washroom (with toilet paper).  On at least three occasions he has saved me from certain collision with crazy Napel road traffic. Strict Nepalese discipline requires that he pay respect to me on a superior level, however, I have convinced him to somehow treat me as his level friend and colleague.

In a rikshaw on the way to get the public bus to Chitwan he is anxious that we don't overspend and we only stay in one hotel room. I tell him don't worry I will pay- but he still feels compelled to save the money. I smile and jokingly ask him, "when you go to heaven do you take your money"? He and I both have a chuckle. He says that in his culture there is a belief that  when you have money - yes- it can be good, but it also, it can be bad because you may end up loosing sight of humanity and be guided only by the money.

An interesting contrast in perspectives I guess.

 



 
*More on the Terrai later.

My First Day at Work

An introduction into an organization in Nepal is quite different than anything I have experienced in Canada. On arriving in Hetauda we had an appointment at 2:00 to meet the Chairman, Secretary, Accountant, and some of the employees of the dairy cooperative.  I am anxious for my CECI handlers to get me to the meeting on time. They take a more casual approach but adjust to my anxiousness and we arrive at two. But the meeting starts much later than that.

The dimension of time is different in depending on culture. In North America we view time in a "Linear" way, meaning there is a beginning and an end and the importance of a time framework, like meeting times. In other cultures time is "Cyclical" placing much less focus on a beginning and an end. What can't be done today can be done tomorrow*.

Niether is better or worse, what needs to get done gets done, just at a different pace. With rolling blackouts and a myriad of other hurdles that face the Nepalese it helps to explain their tolerance and amazing resilience that I am finding so pervaisive in their culture.

I am presented with a Tikka and a gift, welcoming me into the work family. The most common Tikka is red powder applied with the thumb, in a single upward stroke. It is a blessing and honour bestowed on a person entering the working family of an organization in Nepal. 

*For more about understanding the difference between cyclical time versus linear time go to http://www.wrongplanet.net/postt44267.html

Catching a Ride to Hetauda

Hetauda is a small city in the south of Nepal, close to the India border. It is the headquarters of the District Milk Producer Cooperative Union where I will be for the balance of my mandate, 8 days. It is 42 kilometers between Kathmandu and Hetauda, which is exactly the distance between Orangeville and Guelph as the crow flies.

Sashi loaded the jeep at 8:15, to pick up Babina  (Assistant Program Officer) and Proeveen (intern and my translater for the next 8 days). We get to Hetauda just in time for lunch.

The one lane road between Katmandhu and Hetauda is swolen with vehicles full to the brim with people (and sometimes tops of vehicles too) including buses, vans, motorcylces, and things that resemble the three wheel English postal service vehicles from the 1950's. Katmandhu has exploded in population over the last 10 -15 years- by almost twice its original size, and today people are returning from visiting their friends and families from the festival of lights the week prior to this. This route is seldom used by anyone other than the local Napalese travelling between the two cities. I thought Kathmandu was crowded when I arrived there two days ago. I can't fatham what it will be like when I return.

Dodging oncoming vehicles, animals, pedestrians, on hair pin curves with cliffs 500+ meters (and no guardrails) Sashi tells me the trip takes 3 hours even at the best of times. His driving is a lesson in precision, but it must be tiring. Sometimes paved, sometimes strewn with bolders the size of small small dogs, in some areas because of shifting earth and landslides it is a beaten down track.

The scenery is absolutely stunning; terraced rice padies of the most vibrant colour green, ancient villages with original mud brick houses, souring vistas of the distant Himalayas beyind the Kathmandu valley, thick sub tropic tree canopy.

Nepal is beautiful.

Namaste!

Napalese great eachother by joining their hands together and saying Namaste!* I have begun to be comfortable with this ritual already,  because it is used all the time, including the numerous occasions I was introduced to many many people today.

While it was pitch black coming to the Passage House last night, this morning it was bright sun. How does one describe their first impression of Kathmandhu? hm..., blooming flowers everywhere, dust and grime, dogs, busy people, road side stores and stands on every street, children and more children.

First order of business was going to see the Doctor. No, I haven't gotten sick (yet). Its a requirement for international development work. On the way to the clinic I could definitely get a sense of the city's electrical infrastructure - and one of the reasons for mandated power outages.

While the electrical grid makes it appear its chaos everywhere, it is not. It is simply coped with. Napalese and particularly the people I have been working with at CECI have a resiliency and tolerance that is undeniable. And, frankly, enviable.

After debriefing on CECI's role, Uniterra program, touring the facitlities and a meeting with Kesheva Koirala the CECI-Nepal Country Representative, its out for dinner with a couple of ex-pats staying here for 6 months, and home to bed because..., tomorrow I leave for Hetaudu.

(*"Napalese believe that there is a God within each human being. Namaste is saying: I pay respect to the God within you".)

Airport in Kathmandhu

While Hong Kong's transportation runs like a charm, Kathmandhu is a little different. A good flight in and then a crash landing into airport bureaucracy: first a line up for to pay for a visa, then a line up to present the visa, a line up to get baggage (I will never complain about Pearson again- promise), then a line up to go through customs.

Out in front of the terminal I find Sashi driver for CECI in a sea of cabies peddling for fares.  He guides me to the Toyota Jeep and in with a smile puts a yellow scarf around my neck "welcome to Nepal". Wow.

Everything is dark. A scheduled rolling black out. 8 kilometers of twisting lanes and impossible inclines we approach our district. Uh ho, a pack of dogs and two cows are feasting on a pile of garbage. A couple of beeps, a dart with the press of the accelerator, animals scatter and we are down the road to the Passage House. Its 12 AM. No sleep for two days. Here now.

You can live a life in a day in Hong Kong

I arrived safely today in Hong Kong after a 15 hour uneventful but cramped flight from Toronto. Hong Kong airport and transportation runs like a swiss watch. A quick shave, wash and change of clothes in immaculate washroom facilities and before I knew it I was whisked downtown and was exiting Hong Kong station- 7:30 AM- Rush hour-  Hong Kong style. A very fast city. Wow. Warm and humid (25C) and very smoggy. Its not uncommon to see people wearing a mouth protector. But the architecture - holy smokes- unbelievable. 

First stop was The Peak which is 1400 feet ascent on a rickety trolley train built in 1886. The city from this vantage point is clouded in smog- pollution from mainland China. Back to Central Station, a quick lunch and then caught a ferry across from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon. The ferry driver's big task is negotiating through a myriad of small and large craft. 

Kowloon is a labyrinth of tiny streets selling everything you can imagine. I could get a suit made in 5 minutes if I wanted, to a foot message for 5$ HK (very popular!!!)...,

On my return it's easy to see how this city got its reputation - as in  "made in Hong Kong"- containers and containers as far as you can see. Factoid- of the 10 largest container ports in the world, 6 of them are in China and Hong Kong ranks third (running up next to Singapore and Shanghai (#1) (National Geographic).

On my way to Katmandhu. In the meantime some shots taken;